Coming December 7 and 8, Phillips Auction will bring a watch to the auction floor in New York that’s set to make history. This timepiece holds the loftiest estimate ever seen, surpassing even the record-breaking INR 142.93 crore ($17 million) Rolex Daytona once worn by Paul Newman, auctioned back in October 2017.
With an estimate of INR 16.81 crore ($2 million), this watch isn’t a Rolex or a Patek Philippe—the usual powerhouses in auction circles since the revival of mechanical watchmaking in the late ‘80s. It’s not dripping with gems or anything flashy, either. Instead, this piece comes from one of the world’s most revered independent watchmakers, celebrated for skill over spectacle. This watch may just be the most significant Philippe Dufour ever to go up for auction.
The highlight of Phillips’s New York auction captures a growing trend among dedicated watch collectors—a move away from big-name brands toward the craftsmanship of independent makers.
In 1992, Philippe Dufour introduced the first wristwatch with both a grand and petite sonnerie—a rare feat in watchmaking that secured his reputation as one of the finest. A few years later, he released the Duality, followed by the Simplicity, two models that would establish him as a true master. With a lifetime production of only about 250 pieces, Dufour’s work reshaped the watchmaking world, inspiring many independent makers to follow their own paths.
Dufour’s grand and petite sonnerie watches are his rarest creations—only eight exist, crafted slowly over decades. The one up for auction was made in 2016, making it the second-to-last piece he completed and also his most complex.
“The Grande & Petite Sonnerie being offered during Phillips’ New York Watch Auction: XI sale can be considered not only one of the most important Philippe Dufour watches ever made, but also, one of the world’s most important timepieces across all brands and eras. It is a magnificent and groundbreaking timepiece representing the pinnacle of hand-made horological artistry,” said Paul Boutros, Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, America, in the press release.
This piece brings together two of the most coveted features in Dufour’s grand and petite sonnerie line: a sapphire crystal dial that reveals the intricate movement within. The case has two side switches for selecting between the two chiming modes, while the open-dial design is paired with a rare hinged caseback. Consigned by its original owner, it’s entirely new to the market and marks the first open-dial grand and petite sonnerie ever to be auctioned. With all this in mind, it’s no wonder it’s estimated to exceed INR 16.81 crore ($2 million).
Discover more stories on luxury, business, culture, and innovation here at Candle Magazine