Louis Vuitton is all set to captivate audiences with its largest high jewellery collection yet, titled “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds.” This assemblage of 220 pieces, which is split into two parts with each spanning roughly five decades, is the visionary creation of Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s Artistic Director Watches and Jewellery. On June 5, 100 pieces from the collection were unveiled in St. Tropez, while the remaining 120 are to be revealed later this year or in early 2025.
The initial four themes of the collection are rooted in handcrafts, beginning with Splendeur, where floral motifs featuring ruby centres and clusters of closed-set diamonds are layered to mimic the appearance of carved woodwork. Reflecting the transformative impact of artificial light, another key aspiration of Amfitheatrof, the collection includes 143 carats of Mozambique gemstones. The rosy red gems, resembling the now-depleted Burmese ruby veins, glow almost fluorescently under a jeweller’s flashlight.
Even today, when royalty is not as prominent as it once was, Louis Vuitton continues to capture the essence of history of the past with its creations. The collection’s crowning piece is the brand’s first high jewellery tiara, part of the Elegance set, inspired by the trembleuse technique, where motifs delicately shimmer with every slight movement. This tiara, while reminiscent of historic crowns, is designed for today’s wearer, merging classic influences with novel finesse.
The collection is a reflection of the artistic heritage cultivated in 19th century France, drawing from its legacy to inspire its designs. Amfitheatrof told WWD in an interview, “It was such an interesting time in France. Post Revolution, the abolition of the guilds allowed ateliers the freedom to work with anyone and therefore there’s this boom in creation [among] artisans.”
The second part of the collection unfolds through seven themes, each reflecting the century’s advancements in science, engineering, and technology. The Gravité necklace, inspired by an experiment proving the Earth’s rotation, features asymmetrical layering with three royal blue sapphires from Kashmir. Optimisme captures the era’s spirit of innovation withs its interlocking yellow gold and platinum construction, designed to catch the light and evoke the playful and daring optimism of the time. Vision draws inspiration from railway tracks, with sharply detailed repeating motifs in the Perception and Frequence designs hinting at the era’s mechanisation. Finally, Victoire pays homage to Paris’ iconic Eiffel Tower, with volumes and structures that echo the city’s ultimate symbol of architectural triumph.
In this collection, there’s no gemstone with a more compelling history than the Cœur de Paris, a 56.23-carat deep brown-pink diamond fashioned into a square emerald shape, renowned as an Asscher cut. Its hue shifts from pink to peach, influenced by both natural and artificial lighting.
Louis Vuitton has consistently drawn inspiration from its French roots to create pieces that resonate with the brand’s tradition and inheritance. By revisiting the rich creative and cultural past of France, Francesca Amfitheatrof has infused her designs with a sense of tradition and elegance that reflects in its origin. We can trace this back to her inaugural collection for the house in 2019, “Riders of the Knight.” Inspired by heroic mediaeval women and armour-like jewels, these pieces were to symbolise female empowerment. Infused with signature house codes such as V shapes, chevrons, and subtle nods to the trunk, Amfitheatrof’s designs have evolved over time.
Since the establishment of its flagship at Place Vendôme in 2017, Louis Vuitton has positioned the location as the hub of its jewellery operations. Housing its high jewellery ateliers within the building, the brand has expanded its fine jewellery offerings, introducing collections such as LV Volt, while collections like Blossom and Silver LockIt have been revitalised with updated campaigns and designs, reflecting the brand’s ongoing commitment to innovation and excellence in luxury jewellery.
Ana de Armas, who will soon be featured in the campaign for the collection, shared with WWD via email, “Discovering ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’, I was captured not just by the story of 19th century Paris but by the size of the jewels- each one like a world of its own.”
