Patek Philippe Launches First New Line of Luxury Watch Collection in 25 Years

Patek Philippe’s Cubitus line of watches—marking the brand’s first new collection in 25 years—created quite a buzz, but not in the way they had hoped.

Just days before the official launch, an ad popped up, spilling the beans on what was supposed to be a big surprise. The leak caught Patek off guard, leaving watch fans in disbelief. Some enthusiasts were so taken aback that they devoted entire videos to discussing whether the new designs were even real. Even serious collectors we chatted with before the reveal thought it might be a hoax. Some even speculated that Patek might have leaked the news on purpose to stir up excitement.

The leaked piece, the platinum Ref. 5822P priced at INR 74 lakh ($88,378), features the same navy embossed pattern, hour and minute hands, and dotted minute track as the Nautilus. Even the indices are reminiscent, though they appear a bit sharper and more pronounced. As with all platinum Pateks, there’s a diamond set into the case, but this one is baguette-cut.

One of the most noticeable changes is the more squared-off shape of the octagonal case, which gives it a different vibe than the Nautilus’s rounder look. Some have likened it to a mash-up of the Nautilus, a Gerard Charles, and a Cartier Santos Dumont case, creating a design that feels a bit more rugged. Another standout feature is the big date display at 12 o’clock. Interestingly, this platinum model is the only one that comes with a strap made of a super-tough composite material, embossed with a fabric-like pattern.

The big news for the Ref. 5822P is its new movement, the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU. Based on the 240PS IRM CLU, this movement combines a large date window, moon phase and day of the week displays, all of which change in sync in just 18 milliseconds.

Patek Philippe has filed six patents for this movement, thanks to innovations like a tangential brake, dual-function spring mechanism, flexible corrector and positioning system. These features ensure perfect alignment of the date digits and allow adjustments to be made at any time of the day.

The platinum model sticks to a similar layout as the Nautilus Ref. 5712, with the date and moon phase subdial sitting between six and eight o’clock and the seconds subdial positioned between four and five o’clock, though it skips the power reserve indicator. Meanwhile, two other timepieces in this release have a more straightforward look, resembling the 5711 with a standard-sized date window at three o’clock.

The 45 by 8.3 mm Ref. 5821/1A, priced at INR 34 lakh ($41,243), comes in steel with an olive green dial, while the Ref. 5821/1AR, costing INR 51 lakh ($61,276), is a mix of steel and 18-carat rose gold, featuring a navy dial. Both colors have appeared in earlier Nautilus and Aquanaut models, carrying on the brand’s “sporty, elegant” aesthetic with this third collection.

Whether or not the Cubitus feels a bit too sharp or traditional for some, it’s sure to grab attention. But for those who are fans, getting one won’t be easy—it’s likely to be reserved for Patek’s most exclusive clientele for the foreseeable future.