The world’s most renowned auction house, Bonhams, continues its ongoing Jewels series across major cities, proving that more diamonds are better than fewer. On June 5, the spotlight was on New York, where the New York Jewels auction offered an eye-catching collection of rare pieces, including the Harry Winston diamond ring from 1967. Now, the focus has shifted across the Atlantic to London, where the London Jewels live auction will light up New Bond Street on June 13.
Featuring 118 lots, this auction offers a range of jewellery from different periods, including pieces from the Archaeological Revival era and a selection of signed Art Deco jewels. The standout piece at the June 13 auction is a Mouawad “Toi et Moi” ring, estimated to fetch INR 10.86 crores to INR 15.82 crores ($1.3 million to $1.9 million). This ring presents a five-carat radiant-cut fancy, intense blue diamond alongside a 5.1-carat radiant-cut fancy purple-pink diamond, with the stones surrounded by a gallery and shoulders with pavé brilliant-cut diamonds in pink and blue hues.
A diamond fringe necklace from the 1950s, with graduating baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds and a fringe of brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds leading to pear-shaped diamond drops is estimated to sell for INR 2.13 crores to INR 3.19 crores ($255,000 to $382,000). A 19th-century diamond rivière necklace, with cushion-shaped diamonds in pinched collet settings, could also command around INR 1.06 crores ($127,000).
While some of the Art Deco pieces up for auction may not reach the high estimates, they feature accessories from some of the most sought-after jewellers. Among these is a rare Cartier bangle from around 1930, estimated at INR 126.73 lakh to INR 37.59 lakh ($32,000 to $45,000), with ruby cabochons set within an engraved Persian-inspired mount, with graduated emerald, ruby and sapphire cabochons atop tiered rock crystal. Another highlight is a Bulgari brooch from the same era, valued at INR 12.53 lakh to INR 15.87 lakh ($15,000 to $19,000), featuring an openwork design that displays a trio of brilliant-cut diamond chevrons.
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For those interested in coloured diamonds, Bonhams offers a selection of yellow diamonds. One is a Graff diamond pendant necklace featuring a 9.7-carat rectangular brilliant-cut stone, complemented by smaller heart-shaped diamonds, estimated at INR 80.19 lakh to INR 1.01 crore ($96,000 to $121,000). Another piece is a diamond ring with 10-carat fancy intense yellow diamonds, estimated to be valued between INR 63.48 lakh and INR 85.20 lakh ($76,000 and $102,000).
In the Archaeological Revival category, lots include a pair of Castellani sapphire bracelets, a rare Egyptian revival gold scarab bracelet attributed to Ernesto Pierret, and a Carlo Guiliano gold necklace, made from spherical beads. “London Jewels showcases best-in-class examples from every era…It is a rare opportunity for collectors and specialists alike to acquire pieces of such beauty and historical significance”, Jennifer Tonkin Bonhams’ Co-Head of Department of Jewellery in the UK, told Diamond World.
Following the success of the New York Jewels auction, where a ring with a 12.21-carat fancy-deep-brownish-pinkish-orange diamond exceeded expectations by going for INR 15.82 crore ($1.9 million), Bonhams and bidders alike are now ready for its London auction. The New York auction also saw a Harry Winston diamond ring from 1967, with a marquise-cut 29.92-carat D-colour diamond, that brought in INR 12.53 crore ($1.5 million) and a 28.19-carat D-colour diamond ring, which sold for INR 11.69 crores ($1.4 million). In total, the 177-lot auction garnered INR 73.51 crores ($8.8 million), with 88 percet of items finding buyers.
The conversion rates mentioned are based on the exchange rate at the time of the article’s publication.
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