In a move towards sustainability, London Fashion Week will lead the ‘big four’ fashion events by setting sustainability standards for brands participating in the Newgen incubation program. The British Fashion Council (BFC) unveiled this development on Monday, aligning with the framework initially introduced by Copenhagen Fashion Week in 2019 and fully enforced since Autumn/Winter 2023. Copenhagen’s sustainability criteria encompass the adoption of a formal ESG strategy, a diversity and inclusion hiring policy, the use of preferred materials, and the elimination of single-use props in fashion presentations.

Starting in 2025, the British Fashion Council will pilot its minimum sustainability standards with Newgen brands. This initiative already includes mandatory sustainability criteria for brand inclusion. By January 2026, these requirements will be fully enforced for all Newgen brands participating in the event. Following that, the BFC will focus on expanding these sustainability practices across the entire London Fashion Week schedule.

NEWGEN is a British Fashion Council initiative that supports emerging designers with the potential to become global fashion leaders. It focuses on those who stand out for their creativity and strong aesthetic.

These new requirements are part of the British Fashion Council's ongoing efforts through its sustainability-driven think tank, the Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF), which was established in 2020. In another significant step, London Fashion Week became the first of the major fashion events to prohibit the use of exotic skins, such as crocodile and snake, starting in November 2024. This follows Copenhagen’s similar ban, which was implemented in March 2024.

Designers in London are often smaller and less established than the luxury powerhouses in Paris and Milan, which might make it simpler to implement sustainability standards. Independent London brands may also find it easier to adjust their operations to meet these requirements. This shift could offer an opportunity for London’s designers to set themselves apart globally by showcasing the practices needed to push the fashion industry forward.

There are still concerns about the costs involved in meeting these new criteria, especially in London, where many brands are already facing financial strain due to rising expenses following Brexit, the pandemic, and disruptions in the wholesale market.

In June 2024, Berlin Fashion Week joined the sustainability movement, announcing plans to adopt similar criteria to those introduced in Copenhagen. Berlin’s pilot program will showcase a select group of brands later this month. However, the Fashion Council Germany made it clear that it won’t provide financial aid to help brands meet the standards but will offer guidance, advice, and educational resources.