As the country emerges as a thriving hub for the luxury market, one product has risen to the top of every collector's wish list: the luxury watch. With iconic brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet gracing the wrists of discerning buyers, India’s love affair with haute horology is undeniable. The numbers tell the story too—Statista projects the luxury watch market to reach INR 22,735 crore ($2.68 billion) in 2024, growing steadily at 1.24% annually over the next five years.
Today, buying a luxury timepiece has become more accessible, possibly due to increased travel and business trips. However, the real challenge lies in getting it properly serviced. Luxury watches don’t need to be broken to warrant attention; they deserve regular care to stay in top shape. Think of a classic Cadillac—it might run fine but still requires maintenance to preserve its charm and performance. Luxury watches are no different. Even when functioning perfectly, they benefit from periodic servicing—typically every 3 to 5 years, as recommended by most watchmakers—to ensure precision and longevity.
"There's nothing quite like the excitement of buying a luxury watch, but the moment you realize you have to leave the country just to get it serviced, that feeling fades," says Arbinder Singh, a businessman based in Delhi, who owns a Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding. His sentiment reflects a broader challenge in India, where the market for high-end watches is growing, but the infrastructure for servicing them often lags behind. For some brands, there are no service centers in the country, leaving owners with no choice but to rely on international options. This leads to extended wait times, high shipping costs, and the hassle of navigating overseas repairs—turning what should be a seamless ownership experience into a complex ordeal.
According to Wise Guy Reports, the watch services market was valued at INR 1.1 lakh crore ($13.97 billion) in 2023. It’s set to grow steadily, reaching INR 1.2 lakh crore ($14.48 billion) in 2024 and climbing to INR 1.6 lakh crore ($19.3 billion) by 2032. That’s a consistent annual growth rate of 3.66%, reflecting the ever-present demand for keeping timepieces in top-notch condition.
In the backdrop of this rollercoaster of emotions, independent watch repair and restoration stores come into the picture. These family-run businesses, steeped in horological tradition, often pass down their passion and expertise through generations, creating a personal touch that sets them apart from larger conglomerates.
One such independent entity is The Repair Hub, run by Harman Wadhwa and established in 2015, which services around 150 watches every month. Growing up around watches, thanks to his family's business, Wadhwa naturally gravitated toward the craft. His journey took a serious turn when he honed his skills at the K&H Watchmaking Competence Centre in Le Locle, Switzerland—a place known for shaping some of the finest watchmakers. “The process of providing watchmaking as a service is intricate and detailed. People in India rely on independent repair centres for their beloved brands, such as Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Sohne, so we're happy to lend a hand to those who collect these timepieces, as long as you can keep up with the latest innovations in technology and knowledge,” believes Wadhwa.
Running an independent watch repair shop comes with its own challenges, from sourcing intricate parts to handling a timepiece with the care and expertise it deserves, each step requiring a deep understanding of the craft, a steady hand and a good amount of time. Talking about technical issues, Wadhwa said, “They are infrequent at work. Our team holds the expertise to repair complex timepieces, including double tourbillions and perpetual calendars. We encounter challenges in sourcing obsolete parts that are no longer in production. Although we manufacture certain custom components internally, the process requires a significant investment of time.”
When it comes to maintaining luxury watches, the approach taken by independent repair workshops often stands in stark contrast to that of official brand service centers. While brand centers typically follow standardised procedures and replace parts to ensure the watch meets factory specifications, independent workshops tend to emphasize repair over replacement. Wadhwa believes that the primary distinction lies in the tailored experience and the availability of a range of accessories and services, including laser restoration, lapping polishing, scratch protection fills etc. “The customer watch collection is of various brands, and we serve as their comprehensive solution for watches. In many instances, brands decline repairs when they have been discontinued. This occurs even when we put forth additional effort to address their case or offer a solution, particularly in vintage watches where they have stopped manufacturing parts. Brands provide repair services exclusively for the products they are authorised to service, adhering strictly to brand guidelines,” he says.
Sharing a memorable experience of working on a particularly rare watch mechanism, Wadhwa told us about the time he repaired a Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, a watch priced at around INR 3.2 crore. “The watch experienced a significant drop, resulting in damage to several components, including the escape wheel, Pallet fork and barrel,” he said. The drop impact was signifciant enough to damage the pivot of the escape wheel. Wadhwa had to drill a tiny 0.30 mm hole in the wheel and craft the component with such precision that it could be secured in place using friction—ensuring it stayed firmly where it belonged. This model would normally have to be sent all the way to the headquarters in Switzerland for repairs, which means dealing with customs fees and waiting anywhere from six months to a year or more to get it back.
In recent years, there’s been a noticeable rise in local, independent luxury watch repair centres—a lifeline for collectors in India who cherish their luxury brands like Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Many still turn to skilled professionals like Wadhwa, whose workshops have become trusted havens for restoring these prized timepieces. For experts in this field, it’s about keeping up with ever-evolving technology and staying ahead in a world where every tick and tock holds a story. "Customer service and satisfaction are everything," Wadhwa explains. "In any business—and especially in this one—if your clients leave happy, you’re set for the long haul."